@9designs
I changed my Cat/Downpipe out for a Milltek 100 Cell Cat. It’s not an easy swap out but it’s doable. I heard somewhere that Ford recommend removal of the PTU, but that’s not necessary. Most the work is done under the bonnet. I did it on my mates ramp but it could be done on axle stands, although it’ll be a struggle removing the Cat/Downpipe after its unbolted, my days of crawling around under my car over, unless it’s completely necessary!! Lol!!
You need to remove your undertray, disconnect downpipe from Exhaust and there’s a support bar to remove, just bolts. Then there’s a bracket that’s bolted to the Cat, that also needs removed while underneath. Open the bonnet and you need to disconnect and remove battery, battery tray and some other plastic bits to gain access to the 2 x nuts that hold the Cat to the Turbo. Disconnect 2 x connectors for the O2 sensors, you’ll also have to unclip the harness for both sensors.
Then your ready to unbolt Cat from Turbo, I’ll warn you now, you can’t see these 2 x Nuts, no matter where you look from, you’ll be working from above the G/box with bar/ratchet and the nuts are towards the drivers side hence an extension is required, you’ve just got to feel for them, they are 15mm if I remember correctly and I used a 15mm Socket on an extension and a breaker bar, all half inch drive, these nuts are tight as F**K!! My car had done about 15,000 miles when I did this. It takes a lot of balls to slacken them mate!! The studs came out with the Nuts when I did this and I had a hell of a job getting the Nuts off the studs, that’s why I advised @white-rs2 to get new studs and nuts from Ford, if I’d done that it might’ve saved me about an hour!!
Once it’s unbolted you have to wrestle the Cat down and out the bottom between Sub-Frame and floor, the O2 sensors are a pain here as they get caught which ever way you turn it, perseverance is key. You may struggle doing this on axle stands. Once it’s out swap over the 2 x O2 sensors on to your new Cat and refit. My new Cat, although only 100 Cell wasn’t any smaller than the original so it was a struggle getting it in, there was a lump of wood and large hammer used at one point!! Once it’s in passed Sub-frame, screw your studs into the Turbo and position a new gasket on them (if they came out, you might be lucky and the studs stay in). Fit Cat fully and Bolt up the Cat to the Turbo. Then route your O2 sensor wiring, you’ll probably have to cable tie it away from the Exhaust to avoid melting it. Clip the connectors back in at the top/rear of Engine. Then connect Downpipe to exhaust, refit bracket that bolts to Cat and bolt on support bar underneath. Then refit battery tray, battery etc. Once your happy, start it up and hope there’s no leak from the Cat to Turbo join!! Lol!!
I changed mine at the same time as fitting full Turbo hose kit and hardpipe, intercooler, Remus Exhaust and programmed in my Litchfield Stage 2 map, whole job took 9 hours.
It took me about 4 hours of that to do the Cat/Downpipe but I did have the issue with the studs coming out and no burning bottles…..and I smoked a lot of fags too!! Haha!!
I’ve had to write this quite quick as I’m on my break so hope it makes sense?? If need be I’ll correct anything later on when I’m off shift!!
Good luck mate!!
Cheers, Marc.
MY/17, F/White, Forged Black Wheels, Recaro Shell Seats, Diamas SiRamik Glasscoat, H&R Anti-Roll Bars/15mm Spacers, EBC Turbo Brake Discs all round/Yellowstuff Brake Pads, Mountune Air Intake/Recirc Valve/SSC/Blue Turbo Hose Kit and Hard Pipe/Uprated Springs/Short Shifter/Rear Motor Mount/Crank Breather Plate, ETS Intercooler, Milltek 100 Cell Cat, Remus Wolf Inside Exhaust, Litchfield Stage 2 map via Cobb Accessport V3, DSC unit.
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