Wheel & Brake Clean

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 41 total)
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  • #119179

    stuartditchburn
    Participant

    UK - Scotland

    Posts: 330

    Decided after eighteen months to remove the wheels and do a bit of cleaning.  Wheels are OK, (Forged Alloys) fronts show signs of whitening with a rough surface on parts of the inside rim, no blistering more bleaching.  Wheel arches front and rear cleaned, tar etc removed and Chemical Guys Bare Bones applied to front plastic wheel arches.  Nice finish, don’t know how long it will last.  Bilt Hamber UC wax spray on undercarriage and subframe.  Bilt Hamber Wheel Cleaner liberally sprayed around initially and everything cleaned and washed.  Callipers and brake hub area sprayed with Nanolex Ex paint cleaner. Feynlab Brake and Wheel ceramic coating applied to callipers and brake hub black painted inners, easy to use and a really nice finish.  Rally Armour Mudflaps fitted, easy job with the wheels off, cut down the big rear wheel spacer to 31mm for nice tight arch fit.

    Wheels cleaned thoroughly with Bilt Hamber wheel cleaner, Nanolex tar remover and Bilt Hamber soft clay bar.  Finished off with Nanolex Ex paint prep/ cleaner.   Nanolex SI3D Matte applied to forged alloys, easy product to apply but this and the Feynlab are my first dabble with ceramic coatings.  Both easy to apply, both gave a really nice finish, time will tell on their quality and my application !!!!  Nanolex cured very quickly so I had to be quick wiping off the residue once the product was applied.  Wheels refitted using black McGuard wheel nuts and lockers.  Two of the OEM wheel nuts on my offside front where quite badly damaged on removal, needless to say post recall work.  Final job, quick car clean with Polish Angel Spritz then a layer of Polished Bliss Viking Shield.   Four days in total due to curing times, four hours each day.  After eighteen months and 8500 miles the subframe and visible suspension etc where not too bad.  She sits outside in all weathers so I expected more surface rust.  All the cleaning products listed where stuff I mainly use on a weekly basis weather permitting.  I am no detailer but I was quite pleased with the finished results, pictures will follow.    Worth the effort ? Read a few books on the subject,  I would say so for the result.   She is not a daily runner but the car takes a lot of salt throughout the year.

    #119183

    777ham
    Participant

    UK - England

    Posts: 368

    Good job! Sounds like you have put a lot of effort into cleaning it.

    Taking off the wheels and cleaning the arches is on my job list as well now the weather is getting better. Will look into some of the products you used as they sound good?

    #119198

    DaveRS3
    Participant

    United Kingdom

    Posts: 1389

    Sounds like you’ve done a great job there.

    I do a similar routine once a year and its just about due before the show season.

    Anyone else used the Feynlab brake and wheel ceramic who can comment on the effectiveness and durability over time?. I had originally put Gtechniq C5 on mine which didn’t work well for me and ended up using Poorboys wheel wax which turned out to be a lot better so I may try the Feynlab stuff myself.

    #119199

    stuartditchburn
    Participant

    UK - Scotland

    Posts: 330

    #119200

    stuartditchburn
    Participant

    UK - Scotland

    Posts: 330

    Had to paint and seal the brake heat shield top edges, quite badly rusting and cheaply made .  Also painted black and sealed the screws on the mudflaps, quite surprised they do not come black as standard, final job OCD I think!!!

    #119201

    white-rs2
    Participant

    UK - England

    Posts: 4780

    How about pictures of the car and work done would be more interesting than bottles of cleaners ………………………



    RS Edition.

    FPM375 Rocks

    The rest of the “M” maps suck

    #119209

    DaveRS3
    Participant

    United Kingdom

    Posts: 1389

    Nah…

    Can’t beat a nice selection of detailing bottles to get the juices flowing!.

    Pics of the motor welcome though!.

     

    #119211

    stuartditchburn
    Participant

    UK - Scotland

    Posts: 330

    #119212

    stuartditchburn
    Participant

    UK - Scotland

    Posts: 330

    #119213

    stuartditchburn
    Participant

    UK - Scotland

    Posts: 330

    #119214

    stuartditchburn
    Participant

    UK - Scotland

    Posts: 330

    A quick picture of the front wheel inner rim bleaching.   Someone  at Lookers has used something acidic me thinks !!!

    #119215

    stuartditchburn
    Participant

    UK - Scotland

    Posts: 330

    #119224

    Pete Watson
    Participant

    UK - England

    Posts: 48

    That looks great, well worth doing!! I’ve been thinking about replacing the Wheels Nuts for Black Versions, where did you get them from and how much including the lockers?, looks like they sit inside the Wheel Nut Wells, i looked online at the Black McGuard Wheel Nuts, i thought they looked a bit too long, did wondered it they would protrude past the surface of the Wheel.



    Instagram = rsrededition

    #119235

    stuartditchburn
    Participant

    UK - Scotland

    Posts: 330

    Pete, these are all as detailed on the Mountune site.  After trawling around the two RS sites reading about Mcgard suitability on the forged alloys, I decided to buy the wheelnut and lockers.   One post shows the shoulder compatibility and the seat angle and it looked fine for the forged alloys in my eyes.  I know a few guys on here are already using them so took the plunge.  Great fit and look 100% better than the poor quality OEM items, they do not protrude past the surface.  Nuts came from the Mountune site, lockers off eBay,  all for around £90.

    #122520

    white-rs2
    Participant

    UK - England

    Posts: 4780

    Those Calipers look as good as new job well done their what did you use on them?



    RS Edition.

    FPM375 Rocks

    The rest of the “M” maps suck

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 41 total)
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