Home › Forums › Performance › Engine › Going down the Forging Rabbit hole.
@rainydays care to expand on that? It really shouldn’t be that difficult do a piston and rod swap.
Magnetic Grey with all the best bits
FPM375/COBB/MSD- Quaife LSD, DSC+Tractive Suspension, HJS200 cell sports cat and MT Cooler. Sync3 upgrade.
Was UK seller for DSC & Tractive Active suspension !!!
Interesting read this as I’m planning on doing it too, fortunately I will be doing the build myself which will obviously save money that way, there are so many option out there but will prob go down the mahle pistons and bw rod route, king bearings, standard gasket and uprated head studs, possibly a Norris designs deck brace. I currently run MSD 420 and to be honest that is enough for my liking
have you progressed any further on this ? ie parts and where you’ll take it , I’m thinking of doing the same piston and rod change , looking at mountune to do the work as they are local to me .
Kev.
I have picked up a Norris deck brace off these pages now, not much more progress, was thinking there may have been a few “show” deals about, but missed them if there was.
The mystery I’m wanting to solve next is once forged I believe it’s recommend to use a different grade of oil. What I’ve not seen is why. Would like to understand this before choosing bearings and rods.
Magnetic Grey with all the best bits
FPM375/COBB/MSD- Quaife LSD, DSC+Tractive Suspension, HJS200 cell sports cat and MT Cooler. Sync3 upgrade.
Was UK seller for DSC & Tractive Active suspension !!!
My oil changed to 10w 60 after forging. Why, I have no idea
440bhp
443lbft
Will be Wossner pistons and probably PEC rods.
I went with mahle pistons and Bridegway steel rods, rod choice is important
Balance shaft delete:
Why? I’m reluctant, Ford put it in for a reason, at my tune/rpm level does it matter, any negatives if removed, can you feel extra vibrations etc?
It does indeed reduce engine vibrations but necessary to delete it for high rpm forged engines.
I’ll stick with the OEM Head Gasket.
Use the latest spec OEM gasket it is the best available
Head bolts, again OEM would be okay I think, do the 3rd Party ones get torqued to a higher level? The OEM ones are doing okay on my engine now. Any evidence OEM have a problem?
ARP bolts are a worthwhile upgrade and protect your investment a little more especially when cranking the boost up
Bearings, I believe OEM can be used with the rods etc. As mine are already “matched and bedded in” I would look to refit them, obviously in the same location. Unless there are signs of wear or damage, then would fit new.
Do not re use the old bearings get a new set, I went for daido mains one of the best bearings available
I rang Mountune as I used their Rods and Pistons.
Over the phone they told me to use Castrol Supercar Oil 10w60 something to do with the rod and pistons materials and tolerances being much better than the OEM pistons.
As above would use new bearings Tri-metal or King as cheaper than a deck brace
To be honest everything The above “Pezza” has written is pretty spot on.
Another reason for a balance shaft delete is, it does less damage you doing it than the engine trying to do it for you lol
RS Edition.
FPM375 Rocks
The rest of the “M” maps suck
Great thread, with some excellent info
For my understanding oil is matched to bearing clearance, not piston. To thick at low temp will risk damage on start up. Going from O to 5w would seem okay. If it’s much higher power race engine then may be high load /temp capacity of 60 is good. For me I think a 5w-40 or 5w-50 will be fine, I’d rather go for a better ASPI rating to better reduce LSPI.
I would like to know if the aftermarket bearings run the same clearance to the crank.
Balance shaft as I understand does require special sump baffles to prevent oil starvation, another area we have to trust 3rd party development.. which you may detect I’m sometimes cynical of. I don’t plan on upping the rpm limit. So I plan on keeping mine in.
Magnetic Grey with all the best bits
FPM375/COBB/MSD- Quaife LSD, DSC+Tractive Suspension, HJS200 cell sports cat and MT Cooler. Sync3 upgrade.
Was UK seller for DSC & Tractive Active suspension !!!
The balance shaft assembly may have its own ideas about staying or leaving lol.
Mountune said 10w60 oils fine with the bearings it’s for cold start and for more extreme driving, the two temperature extremes, as for normal driving perfectly good.
You maybe overthinking it a tad really.
If your worried about specific tolerances you should invest in a Blueprint forged motor.
Then everything will be nearly the perfect Ford spec & tolerances.
RS Edition.
FPM375 Rocks
The rest of the “M” maps suck
A Blueprinted engine would be lovely I fear a tad expensive.
I maybe over thinking it, but 10W is worse for cold start as it’s thicker at low temp and would take longer to circulate etc. But then I don’t believe “tuning companies” who haven’t done 5% of the development that Ford Motor company does. Remember the crowd that said we should all have our blocks welded up as they will crack next to the rib.
Magnetic Grey with all the best bits
FPM375/COBB/MSD- Quaife LSD, DSC+Tractive Suspension, HJS200 cell sports cat and MT Cooler. Sync3 upgrade.
Was UK seller for DSC & Tractive Active suspension !!!
My engine builder recommended sticking with Ford recommendation oil when I mentioned I’ve seen other posts about different grades of oil, without looking at invoice I think it’s 5w-30 but could be wrong.
never questioned it as any issues it be them looking into it
That’s good to know RS@WUB.
Magnetic Grey with all the best bits
FPM375/COBB/MSD- Quaife LSD, DSC+Tractive Suspension, HJS200 cell sports cat and MT Cooler. Sync3 upgrade.
Was UK seller for DSC & Tractive Active suspension !!!
I run 10/60 oil again as advised by mountune
Arp studs are ok for 500 -530 when you start pushing past this they are not fit for purpose then you need ca625 or if pockets allow mp35n ,you also have choices while apart
O ring the head
Porting the head (Inlet exhaust combustion chamber)
Cams , now is the time to at least fit harder cam springs even if you dont fit the cams as if you do wa t to up the anti you won’t need to split the motor again
If you want a balance shaft delete and baffled sump kit I keep them on the shelf and discount to members anyway they are not hugley expensive items
Note your oil will be 7.1 litres and not 5.4 with bsd kit (i think I’m quoting with an oil cooler fitted also I could be wrong) but it’s worth knowing you will 100% hold more oil
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