RS Porn – Handling Mods and AP 6 Pots

[white-rs2]

Had the FPM375 fitted as a stop gap.

After fitting all the induction pipes, air filter, inlet manifold and an exhaust their was a huge pause / flat spot then the car would pick up and go. I just don’t think the standard ECU map could handle the increased airflow and caused this hesitation.

So the map was installed to get past this issue of a flat spot / pause and it has and it performs as expected very good with excellent pick up in the mid-range, which tails off towards the higher end.

But the reason for the map was to get over the hesitation / flat spot and that has been cured, its press the loud pedal and it now goes off without any hesitation

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RS Edition.

FPM375 Rocks

The rest of the “M” maps suck

[white-rs2]

Having the Ford Performance Exhaust on the car I was looking forward to my journey. I Recently did a 350 mile round trip using both motorway and A&B roads and the sound down country lanes was fantastic, more so now Feng is switched off.

But the biggest bonus was NO drone at all cruising on the motorway at 40 / 50 / 60 / 70mph god loves smart motorways.

The music was set at level 9 for the whole journey and their wasn’t a need to increase this. So yes really pleased with my choice on sound and looks

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RS Edition.

FPM375 Rocks

The rest of the “M” maps suck

[9designs]

Having now heard, seen and ridden in White-rs2  car I can vouch for it sounding pretty good. When on the beans it is loud inside and out, but close the tap and it quietens downs, but still with it’s distinctive note.

Same the time also had a Mountune V3 equipped car at mine  (Dr RS) …  as each left it was quite obvious the FPE system has a lot deeper throaty bark, possibly louder.  The MT was more raspy and harsher in tone and not as nice or impressive (sorry mate).

As I leave early in the morning not sure my neighbours would appreciate either though !!

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Magnetic Grey with all the best bits

FPM375/COBB/MSD-  Quaife LSD,  DSC+Tractive  Suspension,  HJS200 cell sports cat and MT Cooler. Sync3 upgrade.

Was UK seller for DSC & Tractive  Active suspension !!!

    

[white-rs2]

These are the last items on the front suspension to be fitted followed by a full four wheel alignment.

The aim is to get as close to negative 1.4 to  negative 2 camber on the fronts more would be good but I haven’t any camber plates so we’ll see what can be done with the standard parts.

Camber plates that are available won’t fit the Tractive dampers such as Vohslag (spellings could be wrong).

The reason for the negative camber increase is my friend has a small race team and they worked out on they were getting positive camber of 3.5 to 4 which isn’t good for traction and handling they have set their race car to around -3 to -4 front and won’t tell me the rears……….. team secret and vague on the fronts really lol.

ears

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RS Edition.

FPM375 Rocks

The rest of the “M” maps suck

[white-rs2]

So fitted these bushes on Saturday no one mentioned the big bush is oil filled and tastes like crap as I cut it off from underneath with a cutting disc ????

Yes feels different I now get a little bit of road noise in the steering wheel I can feel due to having black anti lift and purple camber adjust Powerflex bushes. But absolutely nothing to worry about or over bearing.

Feels even more planted now as prior 4 wheel alignment it would of been out somewhat with lowering it, adding ARBs, a change of shocks dropping the front crossmember and putting back together is never the same as factory built.

So yes I did try negative -2.6 the max I could achieve with mostly standard parts bar bushes (fronts) but for road use it’s to much makes it a bit dartie (if such a word) a bit like really mild TS but easily controlled. Dialled it back to -2 planted and true so optimum is negative -1.4 (which is nearly base factory) to negative -2.1, I would say for a road car  is the most usable and stable.

All the settings we tried about 5 different ones from minus -1.5 to -2.6 where all within the green zone so within Ford spec which did surprise me somewhat.

My final camber setting are Fronts -2.1 and Rears -1.1. This may or may not suit everyone but for my setup on my car with my mods it works really well.

It’s now got quite an aggressive wheel in arch stance ? wheel base outward top tucked in.

Who said you can’t have your ? and eat it  …………. Well they lied <span style=”-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0);”> ?</span>

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RS Edition.

FPM375 Rocks

The rest of the “M” maps suck

[brembo]

@white-rs2

Evening mate!! Loving this thread by the way!! Do you have, and can you please post, some pics of your RS’s stance, especially the front end, please?? Got a few a questions, if that’s ok??

How many miles did you do on your Tractive Suspension before fitting the Powerflex Bushings??

How was the Tractive Suspension prior to fitting the Powerflex Bushings??

Would you recommend the Powerflex bushings regardless, ie. on a standard RS with Mountune Springs and a possible DSC. Now, I know that you had the Tractive stuff prior to the Powerflex stuff, but from past experience….??

Will your current Wheel Alignment Settings affect tyre wear??

Can you recommend a “GOOD” Front brake upgrade at a reasonable price?? Your AP is lovely but out of my current price range.

I’m hoping to lease a DSC for the 3 weeks I’m home at some point, just can’t do it just now as there’s no guarantee with the weather?

I’m asking this stuff because I’m really starting to notice that the faster my RS gets (which is great), the more things I start to feel it’s lacking!! So, for example….

When I bought the RS brand new in April 2017, It was the fastest, tightest and best handling car I’d ever driven!! It was Awesome!!

Now I’m finding myself holding back at certain times coz you know it’s gonna slide or lean a bit too much which Knocks your confidence slightly, especially when you want to BELT ON!! But what I’ve noticed most are the brakes, and it’s not a fluid issue, they’re just NOT UP TO THE JOB anymore mate!! Not at all!!

Massive respect to you for doing all the upgrades that you’ve done to your RS and in the order that you’ve done them!! That tells me that you know what the F**K you’re doing, from experience!! Then you will finally get some POWER under the hood!! Most folk, MYSELF included just think power, give me some more power please?? Haha!! Now I’m thinking… F**K….. my brakes are PURE PISH!! My BACKEND is sinking like F**K when I put the foot down!! Christ the cars wallowing a bit and the front end doesn’t seem to dig in anymore…Etc. etc etc….!!!! All that stuff boils down to being able to drive faster, and that’s what everyone does!!

Hope all that makes sense mate?? It’s Whisky night tonight…. so I’m having a Dram and trying tae write a story about me getting a puncture!! Haha!! ??????????.

Cheers, Marc.

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MY/17, F/White, Forged Black Wheels, Recaro Shell Seats, Diamas SiRamik Glasscoat, H&R Anti-Roll Bars/15mm Spacers, EBC Turbo Brake Discs all round/Yellowstuff Brake Pads, Mountune Air Intake/Recirc Valve/SSC/Blue Turbo Hose Kit and Hard Pipe/Uprated Springs/Short Shifter/Rear Motor Mount/Crank Breather Plate, ETS Intercooler, Milltek 100 Cell Cat, Remus Wolf Inside Exhaust, Litchfield Stage 2 map via Cobb Accessport V3, DSC unit.

[white-rs2]

Hello Marc

 

I hope this is of some help

Evening mate!! Loving this thread by the way!! Do you have, and can you please post, some pics of your RS’s stance, especially the front end, please?? Got a few a questions, if that’s ok??

How many miles did you do on your Tractive Suspension before fitting the Powerflex Bushings?? About 500 B roads miles around the Peaks / Saddleworth areas. But the plan was always to add mechanical aids to improve grip. The bushing my be over kill with the Tractive setup as the car railed corners flat prior to bush fitment. But the bushing allowed a total of 1 degree of camber adjustment and aids anti lift of the cars nose.
How was the Tractive Suspension prior to fitting the Powerflex Bushings?? Tractive kit is awesome but at the end of the day its a Macpherson strut setup and it’ll always give you or try to give you some positive camber on the loaded wheel. I’m a big fan of both modern electronic wizardry and actual bolt on mechanical stuff, they compliment each other. The grip produced via the Tractive setup is phenomenal the only grip that lets you down is keeping your arse staying planted in the seat, as the car tries literally to eject you from the drivers seat threw the corners the grip is that good .1G of cornering force from factory before, now its much much more how much?
Would you recommend the Powerflex bushings regardless, ie. on a standard RS with Mountune Springs and a possible DSC. Now, I know that you had the Tractive stuff prior to the Powerflex stuff, but from past experience….?? Yes it’ll help even a standard spec car. The negative camber will aid you in the corners as it’ll give you a larger tyre to tarmac contact area, I don’t think the Powerflex bushes are required on a Tractive setup at all. 
Will your current Wheel Alignment Settings affect tyre wear?? NO, they are still in the green and within the Ford OEM allowed tolerance
Can you recommend a “GOOD” Front brake upgrade at a reasonable price?? Your AP is lovely but out of my current price range. All the floating disc’s are around £750-£850 which are good with the Brembo’s. But, that’s the same disc cost as the AP setup. I cant really recommend any other brakes as from Mk2 Escort to Mk3 Focus I’ve used AP callipers and one set of Willwood 4 pot dyna lights which performed really well. Richie imported some CompBrakes.com he rated them about 18 months ago hasn’t mentioned any issues cost about £1300 all in at that time. Or you could try racingbrake.com as all the UK brake kits seem to be around £1900 – £2600
I’m hoping to lease a DSC for the 3 weeks I’m home at some point, just can’t do it just now as there’s no guarantee with the weather? <b>On my Magnetic Grey with my first setup that of a set of lowered springs (I used H&R) but it doesn’t matter as long as its a reputable company ie Mountune, Eibach etc. A set of ARB’s again its a preference thing (I used H&R) others such as Eibach, Steeda, Whiteline etc. Then added a DSC controller, I know I’ll get burned for saying this but it made a massive improvement over the exiting mods and worked well with the mechanical aids.</b>
I’m asking this stuff because I’m really starting to notice that the faster my RS gets (which is great), the more things I start to feel it’s lacking!! So, for example…. We both modify but I modify in the reverse order to you, neither is wrong or right just the way we both choose to do it. My logic is if you can brake later and hold more speed in the corner you’ll be quicker from the standard power.
When I bought the RS brand new in April 2017, It was the fastest, tightest and best handling car I’d ever driven!! It was Awesome!! Its fantastic car right out of the box and as a modders starting point its awesome as you say. But to chase power above 420/440 its going to get really expensive very very quickly.
Now I’m finding myself holding back at certain times coz you know it’s gonna slide or lean a bit too much which Knocks your confidence slightly, especially when you want to BELT ON!! But what I’ve noticed most are the brakes, and it’s not a fluid issue, they’re just NOT UP TO THE JOB anymore mate!! Not at all!! What made my mind up on the brakes was the last Sunday out with some friends who mostly have M2,M3,M4 cars and their was tons of smoke like burnt toast coming from the callipers , I recon I wasn’t far away from a burning pad on that day and the distances to stop and pedal travel both increased somewhat. making it a tad twitchy in the pants department lol.
Massive respect to you for doing all the upgrades that you’ve done to your RS and in the order that you’ve done them!! That tells me that you know what the F**K you’re doing, from experience!! Then you will finally get some POWER under the hood!! Most folk, MYSELF included just think power, give me some more power please?? Power and the feelings you get the rush is amazing Haha!! Now I’m thinking… F**K….. my brakes are PURE PISH!! My BACKEND is sinking like F**K when I put the foot down!! Christ the cars wallowing a bit and the front end doesn’t seem to dig in anymore…Etc. etc etc….!!!! All that stuff boils down to being able to drive faster, and that’s what everyone does!! Again at the risk of being burnt the DSC will cure most of that anti dive, anti squat, anti roll, as my Magnetic was almost flat going through corners, How much work did the DSC do? How much work did the ARB’s do? How much work did the Springs do? But as a package they all worked fantastic together. And also a 15mm per side wider track all round (I used H&R spacers).

All the above is my experience and NOT written in stone, other peoples views and experiences may differ.

I’d rather own / drive a car standard or modified DSC equipped than one not so equipped.

 

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RS Edition.

FPM375 Rocks

The rest of the “M” maps suck

[white-rs2]

Well it cost a £1k to find out if the trusted negative -2 degrees fronts would work with active suspension.

The conclusion to the question is no it’s too much if it was a traditional setup it’d be bang on the money.

So the next step is to try -1,4 fronts and -1.3 Rears with a new set of Ford front bottom arms. This’ll be in a couple of weeks.

Going to put the negative setup on a friends ST, as the bottom arms are the same giving -2, just as an experiment to see how it handles and get his low down on how he found it to how it was prior, all the rest of his suspension is standard.

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RS Edition.

FPM375 Rocks

The rest of the “M” maps suck

[white-rs2]

So the final plan I have for this motor is now underway this being around part 5 or 6 or 7  of this cars development.

The plan is to get around 501 to 600bhp using  Ported Head & Cams, a new bigger turbo, big injectors, HP fuel pump and a final custom map

So dived in and booked into Litchfield for the 17th May for a custom dyno stage 2 map and a sports catted downpipe supplied and fitted.

Prior the Litchfield going Mountune Steel 4th May to 11th May. Using Mountune as their stuff is rated to 800bhp and if I get my max of 600 I still have a safety margin of some 25% as a minimum.

Also on the 27th April I’ve a new set of Tractive rear springs to be fitted, Ford OEM front lower arms with around negative -1.4 degrees, billet aluminium rear roll bar clamps and set up the spring heights to Fronts to 650-655mm and the rears +10mm 660-665 to keep the Ford handling traits as designed which is pretty awesome.

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RS Edition.

FPM375 Rocks

The rest of the “M” maps suck

[brembo]

@white-rs2

Morning mate!! So are you gonna be able to run-in the Engine in the week between getting the Forged Internals at Mountune and getting Stage 2 at Litchfield?? How many miles do you have to take it easy for after the Forged stuff is fitted, 500, 1000?? And is there an oil change after that?? When you planning getting the Head done and Turbo fitted etc..??

Look forward to hearing your thoughts after getting Stage 2. And must say, quite impressed that Mountune’s Internals are good for 800BHP!! Will you still have the original Crank??

Cheers, Marc.

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MY/17, F/White, Forged Black Wheels, Recaro Shell Seats, Diamas SiRamik Glasscoat, H&R Anti-Roll Bars/15mm Spacers, EBC Turbo Brake Discs all round/Yellowstuff Brake Pads, Mountune Air Intake/Recirc Valve/SSC/Blue Turbo Hose Kit and Hard Pipe/Uprated Springs/Short Shifter/Rear Motor Mount/Crank Breather Plate, ETS Intercooler, Milltek 100 Cell Cat, Remus Wolf Inside Exhaust, Litchfield Stage 2 map via Cobb Accessport V3, DSC unit.

[white-rs2]

@Brembo

The Mountune (Their labour in a pure con Ford quote 17hours for pistons and rods fitment, Mountune 35hours go figure!!!!!!!) run-in is 500 miles so yes (just) need to get in minimum of 360 but 400 miles would be better during the week and then the remaining on the drive to Litchfield which is another 140 miles each way.

The Ford OEM crank is a forged item, but their just very heavy. The Callies crank is some 8lbs lighter, its basically had the vibration shaft wheel removed with some other lightening and the doweled crank end. If funds allow I’ll get the Callies but unlikely at this stage as not required. But the weight saving is enormous and attractive.

Yes Mountune USA spec with the smaller 22.5mm pin size is 200bhp per cylinder rating, the UK spec runs a 23mm pin so maybe an additional 5-10% safety margin.

The Head work Norris Motorsport (if they will) second choice ?? & Piper Cams BP285T plus a Turbo, don’t know which Turbo at the moment ? Installation for the Head, Cams and Turbo is planned late 2019 – to mid 2020 as its getting REALLY stupid expensive now, but I’ve started so I must see it threw; unless the Mrs see’s my spend to date and then caps my spending ……………………………….. hahahahahaha

 

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RS Edition.

FPM375 Rocks

The rest of the “M” maps suck

[white-rs2]

The journey continues to make MY ultimate Focus Mk3 RS.

• ARP Head Bolts.
• Mahle Motorsport Pistons.
• Carrillo Rods
• Castrol Supercar 10-60

A small job for next week –

And for those that like a Part Number to order the right gear here you go –

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RS Edition.

FPM375 Rocks

The rest of the “M” maps suck

[white-rs2]

So on Tuesday the strip down begins and another milestone passed in the bid for a lowly 501bhp.

Next Year:

Fitting Cams, a Ported Head and a Hybrid turbo should give at least 575bhp and a custom map to suit.

With a minimum of 50bhp from the head and cams and using a 600hp rated Garrett Turbo should be the final touches and job bloody well finished hooray x

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RS Edition.

FPM375 Rocks

The rest of the “M” maps suck

[brembo]

@white-rs2

Evening mate!! So you’re getting the Internals done at Mountune then off to Litchfield for the Stage 2 Map. I have a couple of questions as usual, lol!!

Have you ordered the Pistons, Conrods and ARP Studs yourself and are getting Mountune to fit them?? If so, where from??  Just asking coz the pics look like you’ve ordered the parts yourself?? Also, how are you getting 501BHP?? Is this from a Custom Map by Litchfield or will you be running the same Stage 2 Map as me but you’ll have it tweaked on their Dyno so will have around 415/420BHP?? And finally, why did you have to get 2 x new Tractive rear Springs??

I hope in time, to get 500WHP, so probably about 580BHP at Crank. Will you need to upgrade your Intake Manifold?? I know you have the cast Mountune one already, will that suffice?? Are you expecting to get around 575BHP from 4 single injectors (just making them bigger with upgraded Fuel Pump) rather than an Aux set up?? It would be great if you could achieve 575BHP using larger Injectors and standard ECU with  custom map, larger Turbo and upgraded Cylinder Head with Cams!! ?.

Also, will you be strengthening the Block if your gonna be getting close too 600BHP next year?? And I’m sure I’ve asked you before, but at what point will you upgrade the Clutch and have you decided on one yet??

Sorry for all the questions mate, just intrigued with all this!! ??.

Have you thought about Devil Developments for the Cylinder Head work??

Right, I’m done for now mate!! Haha!! ?.

Cheers, Marc.

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MY/17, F/White, Forged Black Wheels, Recaro Shell Seats, Diamas SiRamik Glasscoat, H&R Anti-Roll Bars/15mm Spacers, EBC Turbo Brake Discs all round/Yellowstuff Brake Pads, Mountune Air Intake/Recirc Valve/SSC/Blue Turbo Hose Kit and Hard Pipe/Uprated Springs/Short Shifter/Rear Motor Mount/Crank Breather Plate, ETS Intercooler, Milltek 100 Cell Cat, Remus Wolf Inside Exhaust, Litchfield Stage 2 map via Cobb Accessport V3, DSC unit.

[9designs]

I can answer the easy one about rear springs, because Adrian kept complaining it was to high at the the rear LOL… So after we had discussion with Tractive they agreed (eventually) it would be better to have a shorter spring and use the height adjuster to raise it back to stock if people want but also achieve a lower ride height. So both Adrian and I have a set of lower proto springs to appraise and feedback prior to all springs being reset to a little lower height.  They were achieving similar height to Mountune springs, so only about 10-15 mm lower than stock at the rear.

What’s also interesting as a side note is the comments on the US site about rake angle and lowering the rear causes more under steer. Maybe Tractive/DSC knew this and hence the heights they set ???

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Magnetic Grey with all the best bits

FPM375/COBB/MSD-  Quaife LSD,  DSC+Tractive  Suspension,  HJS200 cell sports cat and MT Cooler. Sync3 upgrade.

Was UK seller for DSC & Tractive  Active suspension !!!

    

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