Sump Design Changes

[white-rs2]

The top left circled image has a square edge, compared to a curve edge of the other.

I do understand perspective, but I also understand it wont change a curved bolt lug / boss into a two sided corner.

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RS Edition.

FPM375 Rocks

The rest of the “M” maps suck

[RS77]

Please shoot me someone!

After seeing so many mundane discussions on forums and saying to myself, “give me a break”, I’ve surprised myself by doing exactly the same.

I’ll leave the debate about whether there’s a difference in shape between one piece of metal and another to someone else in future.

 

[ipwnswiss]

white-rs : i am a mechanical engineer in designing. I can read pretty good in any different perspectives. and I say this sump casting is exactly the same. just bad pictures and maybe “prayers” think already they got pranked on early delivered cars. I say it is the same sump and some plates added which needs screws so you have to add some threads to the top casting points. thats all in my view as I draw those parts every day and sometimes gets pictures of parts I have to copy or redesign without 3D datas and thats why I am pretty sure it is the same sump shape, no changes at all. just tricked by old sump nearly from top picture and the new is further away and seems different.

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Ford Focus RS / frozen white / fifteen52 tarmac / lowering springs kw / milltek exhaust / exhaust valve deleter / K&N airfilter / Maxton rear upper spoiler / Mishimoto oil cooler / Auto specialist 40% short shifter /

[rst212]

Sumps are identical apart from the added baffles.

Ive put them next to each other and there is no difference at all apart from the added baffles

 

[RS77]

Thanks, guys. Sanity has prevailed!

 

[white-rs2]

Theirs a clue in the title

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RS Edition.

FPM375 Rocks

The rest of the “M” maps suck

[rst212]

It was me that did the sump change for the Mountune oil control system on both of the cars.

I messaged Kenny as I was unable to upload the photos to the forum.

Ive physically had both sumps side by side and there is no difference apart from the added baffles.

All the lines and veins in the sumps are exactly the same apart from some have been tapped to allow the fitting of the baffle plates in the 2017 sump.

[hillman998]

Thanks rst212.

a significant design change on later cars. These sort of changes are usually based on experience as they are not cheap to add it suggests that the early design is not sufficiently baffled to prevent oil starvation.  Easy to copy the extra plates or replace with the Mountune sump.

How difficult was the sump to remove?

 

[white-rs2]

Ok I got it wrong on this occasion:-)

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RS Edition.

FPM375 Rocks

The rest of the “M” maps suck

[rst212]

It’s not that bad to do but can be time consuming.

Drop under tray.

Remove air con belt.

Drop oil.

Undo all sump bolts.

Split sealant and sump.(using a blade)

Drop sump out of way.

Put sealer on Mountune sump.

Also had to buy Ford sump sealer as the sump has no gasket it’s just sealant. Which you’ve got to let go off a bit before fitting the sump.

Remove Balance shaft.

Fit supplied Balance shaft delete.

Clean surface ready to accept new sump.

Fit Mountune sump.

Tighten sump bolts to Ford standard torque settings.

Refit air con belt.

Change oil filter.

Put new oil in.

Run up check for leaks.

Top up oil if required.

Refit under tray.

Start to finish about 3 hrs.

I dropped the under tray again after a week to double check that there were no leaks.

 

It would have been helpful if Mountune gave the torque settings for the sump and fitting instructions but you get nothing.

Gave them a call and they said standard Ford torque settings then emailed me them so I had a reference.

I was honestly surprised by the weight of the balance shaft that you remove (and how much oil it holds) and have noticed since fitting the oil control system that the car revs a lot cleaner and quicker on acceleration.

 

 

[RS77]

Is this something new to worry about, or just for those of us that drive like we’re in a rally all the time?

[hillman998]

Thanks for the fitting details, removing the air con belt and splitting the sump sound like the worst parts, so not too bad.  I Have a triple pass radiator to fit so doing everything at the same time will be the way to go.

I do intend to do a few track days so the lack of any baffles in the sump are definitely a concern.  I would think that for spirited road use there should be no issues.

Removing the balance shaft is also a plus so the Mountune kit will be the way to go.

[OverRev]

rst212 – Thanks for posting up on the updated sump, interesting, makes you wonder how many other updates the later build cars have had since the early builds first left the production lines.

Guys – please humour me if this is too much of a simple question, (I’ve got to start somewhere), but what are the gains to be had by removing the balance shaft and then installing the delete?

[hillman998]

Hi OverRev

Removing the rotating mass saves weight (16lbs I think) and allows the engine to spin up more freely.  In the good old days no one worried too much about vibrations from a four pot engine but now days they have to be silky smooth.  The balance shafts are like counterweights rotating in opposition to the pistons to reduce the natural vibrations which come with a four cylinder engine.  I think they also reduce the natural harmonics at certain revs.

I’m no expert in this area but I would not think removing them adds to engine power but it would improve engine response if you don’t mind an increase in vibration at certain revs.  Others may be able to add more detail.

My aim would be to improve the baffles in the sump but I’d also be happy with better engine pick up and would happily trade this for some additional vibration.  Maybe RST212 can give us some feedback post installation.

[OverRev]

hillman998 – many thanks for your response mate, much appreciated.

I always enjoy reading what you guys are getting up to with your cars, maybe one day I’ll drift away from the Warranty!

[Author]

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