Home › Forums › Performance › Engine › *Engine Failure – possible cause*
Just for your info Mark, seems the latest cars are I believe suffering from the same or similar engine issues?
Recently posted on our sister site that 2 German registered cars with build dates of Spring 2017 have succumbed to possibly the same fate.
Regards
Really, that’s not good to know. It’s about time Ford put their hands up and admit there’s an issue with this car, every time I’ve spoken to different dealerships they say oh really we’ve not heard of any issues with the RS. Soon these cars resale value will plummet, end of the day who wants to buy a car that could suffer engine failure at any moment.
Hi Guys
I posted a few weeks ago about this engine failure and how ford had had my car for several weeks with no joy. And no communication between delarship and customer.
Good news!! I finally have my car back, after a few words were thrown around and eventually getting through to the managing director of Dinnages Ford the parts turned up in a few days. 3 weeks earlier than they were expecting (funny that).
I’ve asked for a job card to see when and whatworks were carried out and by who etc as they provided no paperwork when I picked up my car. To which the MD of Dinnages Daniel Broyd said “well don’t take the car then”. (Good start). I won’t bore you with the 45 minute argument that ensued but eventually I spoke to the operations manager who was able to answer some of my questions. This is what I’ve got so far;
First electronic clocking, 04/05/2017 @ 08.34
Last electronic clocking, 22/06/2017 @ 12.50
Work performed between the above dates.
Hook up IDS and carry out multiply engine systems tests.
Carry out full engine compression test.
Removed engine cylinder head for inspection. Reference Ford PA
Trace to Engine head gasket failure, requires new engine.
Remove complete engine for return to Ford Motor Company.
New engine supplied direct by Ford Motor Company.
New engine fitted.
I have since been offered my next service free and have been advised to contact the dealership I brought he car from to get my finance payments that I made whilst the car was in the garage back.
But my biggest grip about this was how Dinnages Haywards Heath dealt with the whole situation. They took 4/5 weeks to get in contact with me I spent the first 4/5 weeks chasing them. And I didn’t know what was wrong with my car until I picked it up.
Liam
broken ceramic on spark plug is 99% down to the bloke taking it out using a bad socket or the socket wobbling/tilting a bit while undoing and putting a side force on the ceramic part.
How was your car 34 grand a year ago? mine with all options inc roof, shell seats, forged rims etc was less than £34000 and I ordered in April 2016, for yours to be delivered in June, surely you ordered it when the base price was £28940 and about £32500 fully loaded ??
No nothing.
No Mods. No rockers. Just a chunky knob, thats now been replaced by an RS knob innit.
No tackiness.
Std as Ford intended, but with a space saver wheel and jack and nuts and wheel brace. oh.. and flaps, a man has got to have flaps.
Innit?
My car was £33;664 and £400 gap insurance that’s where I get £34k June 10th 2016. So whatever you think it cost is upto you pal.
ooh, well you cant include the years road fund licence either ! so about a £100 a week depreciation, not bad really, you can easily lose £5000 on a 2nd hand car in a year and £5000 as soon as you drive out off the showroom floor on many new cars. My mate has had two auto gearboxes go on his Aston Martin at 13 grand a pop, thats the sort of thing I’d be worried about, not about getting a new engine under warranty , I bought the extended warranty and the whole subject bores me so much I cant even remember how many years its for! is the std gtee 2 years? does the extended one take it up to 4 or 5 years? if it does, that will do me just fine, its all just metal, if it goes wrong , take it back to the dealer and pick it up when its fixed.
I’d still like to know how people have driven these cars that have failed, are they really being ragged hard? are most of them mapped? can anyone honestly say theirs has gone and they only drive sensibly and hardly ever get the chance to give it the beans?
No nothing.
No Mods. No rockers. Just a chunky knob, thats now been replaced by an RS knob innit.
No tackiness.
Std as Ford intended, but with a space saver wheel and jack and nuts and wheel brace. oh.. and flaps, a man has got to have flaps.
Innit?
It looks like early 16 plates with engine problems, was down at my local ford dealerships last weekend, and there was a 16 plate ( may) on the ramp with its engine stripped out got talking to the technical engineer and he said that number 3 bore was showing signs of excess oil and the RS was waiting on a response from ford about a new engine.
no problem with my RS as yet (66 plate)
Fully forged running M400x
Anyone one else heard the way to identify possible problematic blocks? Or looked to see the type of core plug/bolt they have in the block?
Magnetic Grey with all the best bits
FPM375/COBB/MSD- Quaife LSD, DSC+Tractive Suspension, HJS200 cell sports cat and MT Cooler. Sync3 upgrade.
Was UK seller for DSC & Tractive Active suspension !!!
Regarding the broken spark plug ceramic.
Seen that many times due to ham fisted mechanics and their useless tools.
According to one of our Tech’s ‘friends’ at a dealership in Manchester, the workshop has done loads of engine replacements.
Not Correct, in fact they have done one, an early 16 plate. That’s gossip for you and the problems that can cause.
Mines a Feb 17. Time will tell but that is what the warranty is for.
Enjoy your RS. 🙂
Morning All,
According to my dealer maintaining the correct oil level in the RS is paramount. “Don’t let it drop below the ‘min’ mark and don’t over fill above the ‘max’ mark.”
My thoughts on the engine issue are that maybe those who drove and launched their cars hard from day one used considerably more oil than those who were more sympathetic. Having driven their cars hard, neither did they check their oil level accordingly – and there have been posts from members stating that when they did checked their fluid levels, it was very low or virtually nothing showing at all.
This could have had an effect on the life of the engine – although someone with more tech knowledge than me would need to explain how this would lead to the coolant entering the cyclinders?
Regards
PS – Mine is Oct build, m380+ and carefully run in. Hope these are not my famous last words – no problems so far.
My personal view on this is you don’t buy an rs not to drive it hard when u can if driving it hard is an issue why don’t ford rev limiter it to say 5000 rpm if they think it can’t take getting some stick surely u don’t buy one to drive it like miss daisy I’d say they have a problem on there hands but won’t admit it if I’d been warned not to drive it hard when I bought it I wouldn’t have bought it All very sad
@ Neil. it does in fact say do not drive it hard for the first 1000miles in the handbook. So many folk gave it large by saying things like ” maxxed it as soon as off the dealers site” and ” launched it the next day with 30 miles on the clock” and ” run them in full throttle and rev hard and they go faster when they are run-in”…
No nothing.
No Mods. No rockers. Just a chunky knob, thats now been replaced by an RS knob innit.
No tackiness.
Std as Ford intended, but with a space saver wheel and jack and nuts and wheel brace. oh.. and flaps, a man has got to have flaps.
Innit?
Sadly, I don’t think that there is enough emphasis or education re the importance of ‘running in’. Those of us who are old skool, engineers, mechanics, etc, are maybe a bit more sympathetic to the need, but it does surprise me when I hear of people red-lining from new or cold…….mechanically, that’s just bad practice. You may be lucky and get away with it, but it’s important to break-in all mechanicals for the first 1K or so.
Old school me all my cars that I’ve bought new have been ” run in” never had a problem with engine failure. I’ve even seen some of my old cars still around with many miles on the clock.
Honorary Member